Roberto Cavalli’s Playboys – Spring/Summer 2012

A semiannual favourite of mine is Roberto Cavalli’s men’s fashion show.  Held outdoors this year, in the garden of Milan’s beautiful and historic Palazzo Serbelloni, the Spring/Summer 2012 Collection was a tribute to men’s casual Italian sartorial elegance at its best.  Cavalli’s SS12 collection looks reserved for the privileged and audacious few.  Playboys rich and alpha male enough to sport Cavalli while off stepping their yachts and disappearing into the nightclubs of Saint-Tropez.

Aggressive suit jackets in single and double-breast variety donned wide Tom Ford-like lapels and tapered waists.  At least one of Cavalli’s double-breasted jackets took on an attractive Lanvin-styled cut – a look that’s definitely growing on me. The colours were blinding – valiant cobalts and ultramarines, unapologetic neon fuchsias, and rich tropical mango cadmium yellows slap you in the face.  Carryovers include SS11’s colour-blocks, braided leather belts, tasseled tan loafers, and white suits.  Making their début at the house of Cavalli for next spring/summer are the stripes which are back and bolder than they’ve ever been.  For the most part, classic Cavalli leather, python, and crocodile prints are used sparingly on belts, shoes, and jackets.  I love this collection.  If there is an Achilles heel to the collection though, it’s in the tuxedos.  Sadly, for me, they come off more like American lounge lizard than sophisticated Italian.

Roberto Cavalli SS12

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Double-Breasted Comeback

Double-Breasted Jacket

::::: Double-Breasted Jackets Top L-R: SS11 Acne, Cavalli, Gucci, Gianfranco Ferré, Ermenegildo Zegna, Bottega Veneta ::::: Bottom L-R: David Beckham, Spiro Mandylor, Chris Colfer as Kurt Hummel, Ryan Gosling

It’s been an exciting year for men’s fashion.  Last season we saw major trends such as plaid shirts, bow ties, and rolled pant-cuffs peak in popularity.  In early January, the It’s All Style To Me Men’s Spring/Summer 2011 Essentials were posted and highlighted some of what I felt were the most promising trends of the upcoming season.  Belted trench coats, braided leather belts, statement sports jackets, white suits, colour blocking, leather strap sandals, and seasonal knits have livened up our wardrobes.

Single Vs. Double-BreastedSince its reintroduction in 2008, the double-breasted suit and men’s dress jackets have been picking up steam, making a huge comeback.  No longer limited to fixtures of the 1980s such as Wall Street bankers, creepy game show hosts, and slick used car salesmen – double-breasted suits are looking pretty cool again.   The demand for double-breasted suits and separates has been fueled by new innovative new designs coming out of the world’s leading fashion houses.  Male celebs like David Beckham and Ryan Gosling have been daring enough to give them a go and Kurt Hummel even sported one in at least one episode of Glee last fall.  They fit in nicely with trendy young guys who are adopting the cleaner, tailored, preppy look reminiscent of the Mad Men era.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011 – Men’s Top 20 Picks

Milan FW11 Top 20

Below is a list of the It’s All Style To Me Top 20 Picks (in semi-alphabetical order) from the FW11 Men’s Collections Milan Fashion Week, January 15-18, 2011:

1) Burberry Prorsum – Fur Collared Outerwear and Bags

2) Bottega Veneta – All Leathers

3) Canali – Entire Suit Collection

4) D&G – Furs, Pop Art Print Sweaters, Accessories, Slim Cut Suits

5) Dolce & Gabbana – Velvet Suits and Tuxedos

6) Ermenegildo Zegna – Glen Plaid Printed Pants and Coats

7) Etro – Cowhide Coats and Jackets, Pthalo Blue Shearling Jacket, Printed Shirts, Sweaters, and Cardigans

8) Salvatore Ferragamo – All Creams and Whites

9) Gucci – Entire Suit Collection, Shoes, Men’s Clutches, and Bags

10) John Richmond – Fur Scarf and Matching Fur Lined Coat

11) Pringle of Scotland – Chunky Knit Sweaters

12) John Richmond – Single-Buttoned Pinstripe Suit

13) Bally – Motel Red Sweaters and Black Leather Lace-up Boots

14) Gianfranco Ferré – Double-Breasted Red Velvet Sports Jacket

15) Umit Benan – Printed Three-Piece Suit

16) Versace – Textured Black Leather Sweaters and Outerwear

17) Roberto CavalliMetallic Coloured Suits

18) Z Zegna – Lamp Blacks

19) Z Zegna – Emerald Green Belted Coat

20) Vivienne Westwood – Printed Sweater

Roberto Cavalli Men’s Collection Fall/Winter 2011

The White Stripes‘ St. James Infirmary Blues kicked off Roberto Cavalli’s 70s rock star playboy inspired Men’s FW11 collection.  Cavalli sees us in grooved out metallic coloured three-piece suits adorned with fancy neckerchiefs and Native American feathered necklaces for next fall/winter.   Beautifully crafted suedes and furs featured prominently throughout the collection, as did…cowboy boots?  Or were they Cuban Heeled boots?

Cavalli appears to definitely be channeling a young Burt Reynolds, Joe Namath or any slew of playboy celebs partying at Studio 54 in the 70s. Highlights included a shadow leopard print black suit and leopard-lined trench coat, vivid red and emerald green velvet suits,  shimmering three-pieces, and rich deep blacks and blue fabrics throughout the collection.  Nice, if you’re a RockNRolla, but what about the rest of us?

Roberto Cavalli FW11

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