Gucci’s Restraint – Spring/Summer 2012

Frida Giannini has temporarily abandoned the signature Italian flamboyance and opulence of recent Gucci Men’s Collections veering into a decidedly more British contemporary-meets-classics sartorial looks for Spring/Summer 2012.  An exclusive sneak peek with GQ the day before the collection revealed that, “[This is a] new sartorial take on spring/summer for the Gucci man: a slim, precise silhouette, high-tech workmanship, and a playful attitude.”  Are we Italians or are we Germans?

The colours, just as restrained as the designs were predominately black-and-white mixed with creams and subtle greys.  A palette devoid of any real colour save a dazzling motel red trench and beautiful plum suit and leather jacket.  The focus of the SS12 collection, definitely in the patterned fabrics.  Houndstooth, Glen plaid, and windowpane checks all used in the tailored suits, separates, and casual collarless dress shirts.  Black horse bit loafers and black leather white-soled lace-ups reign supreme for SS12.  A marked departure from the tan and powder blue suedes loafers on camels and creams of SS11 and decidedly more Michael Caine circa Get Carter.

For Giannini, the devil is once again in the details.  Trousers with reinforced inner knees (riding pants?) and snaps or laces with contrast piping at the ankles looked incredible.  The subtlety of the thin leather necklaces and oversized boxy sunglasses with their gradient lenses –  a nice touch.  Best of show had to go to the men’s leather bags and briefcases which appear to be as luxurious as they are timeless.  A great collection and an interesting departure for Gucci, but please Frida for next season – bring the back the glam.             

Gucci SS12

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