Canali Channels India – Spring/Summer 2012
June 21, 2011 Leave a comment
Anna Dello Russo had once told me that she found menswear boring. So much so, that she couldn’t bring herself to comment on the subject. I sincerely hope that she was in Milan these past few days because the collections have invigorated men’s fashion and can be categorized as many things, but boring isn’t one of them.
In mid-January, Ermenegildo Zegna presented us with their engaging Fall/Winter 2011 Collection. A Far Eastern inspired collection, it was designed to entice the growing Asian market. By tapping into some of China’s historical designs and fusing them with traditional Italian tailoring, Zegna created one of the most astounding fall/winter collections of Milan Fashion Week. Six months later, history has repeated itself, but this time it’s Canali who has channeled the rich historical fashion design influences of another growing market – South Asia.
Canali’s runway, a vast white pishtaq leading to an arched Mughal iwan was a clear reproduction of the entrance to Taj Mahal. Striking handsome model after model poured out in Indian inspired suits, foulard, Nehru collared shirts, reworked slippers, and even a Ganesh-print tote. The subdued pastels calmed the senses during the first part of the show which culminated in a climactic barrage of vibrant jewel-coloured suits and embellished tuxedos.
Canali’s SS12 collection provides a healthy mix of South Asian looks that run the gamut from conservative contemporary to abstract traditional. Subtle South Asian detailing is found in the slim fitting ensembles. Tailored two-piece suits layered over white T-shirts, silk scarves, and light cardigans for the conventional. More traditional Indian looks featuring reinterpreted kurtis, churidars, and Indian slipper ready for the daring.
I’ve never been to India, but there are many beautiful pieces in this collection that I would definitely wear. Definitely one of the top three collections to come out of Milan this Fashion Week.