Roberto Cavalli’s Playboys – Spring/Summer 2012

A semiannual favourite of mine is Roberto Cavalli’s men’s fashion show.  Held outdoors this year, in the garden of Milan’s beautiful and historic Palazzo Serbelloni, the Spring/Summer 2012 Collection was a tribute to men’s casual Italian sartorial elegance at its best.  Cavalli’s SS12 collection looks reserved for the privileged and audacious few.  Playboys rich and alpha male enough to sport Cavalli while off stepping their yachts and disappearing into the nightclubs of Saint-Tropez.

Aggressive suit jackets in single and double-breast variety donned wide Tom Ford-like lapels and tapered waists.  At least one of Cavalli’s double-breasted jackets took on an attractive Lanvin-styled cut – a look that’s definitely growing on me. The colours were blinding – valiant cobalts and ultramarines, unapologetic neon fuchsias, and rich tropical mango cadmium yellows slap you in the face.  Carryovers include SS11’s colour-blocks, braided leather belts, tasseled tan loafers, and white suits.  Making their début at the house of Cavalli for next spring/summer are the stripes which are back and bolder than they’ve ever been.  For the most part, classic Cavalli leather, python, and crocodile prints are used sparingly on belts, shoes, and jackets.  I love this collection.  If there is an Achilles heel to the collection though, it’s in the tuxedos.  Sadly, for me, they come off more like American lounge lizard than sophisticated Italian.

Roberto Cavalli SS12


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