Artisanal Burberry Prorsum – Spring/Summer 2012

A quaint YouTube video invitation from Christopher Bailey to those of us not able to join him in Milan and we’re waiting in wide-eyed anticipation in front of our computers early on a Saturday morning.  It’s Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week and be it in person or online, many eyes were on the British institution Burberry to see what Bailey’s Prorsum had in store for Spring/Summer 2012.  The fashion show began with Muse’s rallying call of Butterfly and Hurricanes seamlessly transitioning to Elvis Costello before ending with a rare version of U2’s Unchained Melody.  I look forward to the show’s soundtrack almost as much as I look forward to the show itself.

My first reaction was that Chritopher’s been clearly hanging out at the same cafés as Miuccia Prada.  Intense striped patterns and colours in the sweaters and cork-soled brothel creepers have picked up where Prada’s SS11 sweaters and brogue espadrilles left off.  Looking significantly less British than previous shows, this collection had an Italian meets Indonesian and Nepalese artisanal quality to it.  I’ll be honest, I’m not a fan of the raffia Welcome Back Kotter hats, the kitschy pocket-patched dress shirts, and the funked up Target logo T-shirts.  The remainder of collection impressed.  Raffia-trimmed outerwear in deep saturated colour, Prada-esque striped knitted sweaters in crew and cowl-neck, and those insane shoes will all unquestionably be making the must-have lists for SS12.  Other favourites included the Jakartan Ikat printed shirt and trousers and vibrant double-breasted cable-knit cardigans.  Perhaps not the best we’ve seen from Mr. Bailey to-date, but a very creative wearable collection nonetheless.

Burberry Prorsum SS12

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